Wall Mounted Sign Cabinet Installation Guide

Before You Begin: Please review the guide below. Ensure you have the proper lifting equipment (crane, bucket truck, or scissor lift) commensurate with the weight and elevation of the cabinet. For visual assistance, please refer to our instructional video library.

Phase 1: Unpacking & Preparation

  1. Inspect: Carefully uncrate the sign cabinet and inspect for any shipping damage.
  2. Remove Faces: Before mounting, you must remove the sign faces to access the mounting points and internal electrical components.
    • Flexible Faces: Loosen tensioning clips and peel back the face material.
    • Rigid Faces (Acrylic/Polycarbonate): Remove the retainer angle (perimeter trim) and slide or lift the plastic faces out.
  3. Storage: Store faces and retainers in a safe, clean location away from the work zone to prevent scratching or breakage.

Phase 2: Positioning & Power Entry

Sign cabinet mounting and power entry diagram
Figure 1: Mounting layout and power entry points
  1. Template/Pattern: If a mounting pattern was provided, tape it to the wall to mark your mounting holes and electrical penetration point.
  2. Marking: If no pattern is used:
    • Measure the back of the cabinet to determine mounting hole locations.
    • Transfer these measurements to the wall, ensuring the layout is level and centered.
  3. Power Feed: Mark and drill the pass-through hole for the primary electrical whip.
    • Note: Ensure the power feed enters the back of the cabinet near the internal raceway or disconnect switch location.

Phase 3: Mounting the Cabinet

Identify which mounting method your cabinet requires.

Method A: Internal Mounting (Through-Bolt)

Best for a clean look with no visible external hardware.

  1. Lift the cabinet into position.
  2. Drill through the back of the aluminum cabinet into the wall structure (studs, blocking, or masonry).
  3. Install heavy-duty fasteners (lag bolts, toggle bolts, or masonry anchors) through the back of the cabinet.
    • Tip: Use large fender washers with your bolts to distribute pressure on the aluminum back sheet.
  4. Seal all penetration points with silicone to ensure the cabinet remains watertight.

Method B: External Mounting (Angle Brackets/Clips)

Used when internal access is difficult or for specific architectural requirements.

  1. Secure the top and bottom mounting brackets (angle iron) to the wall structure first.
  2. Lift the cabinet and rest it on the bottom brackets.
  3. Bolt the cabinet flanges to the top and bottom brackets using the provided hardware.

Phase 4: Electrical Connection

Most sign cabinets come pre-wired with an internal power supply and a disconnect switch.

  1. Route Power: Feed the primary building power (120V or 277V) through the back of the cabinet.
  2. Connections: Connect the primary power to the Disconnect Switch inside the cabinet.
    • Hot (Black): Connect to Line side of switch.
    • Neutral (White): Connect to Neutral post.
    • Ground (Green/Bare): Connect to the specific ground lug bonded to the cabinet chassis.
  3. Test: Turn on the circuit to verify illumination. Check that all LEDs or lamps are firing correctly before closing the sign.

Phase 5: Final Assembly

  1. Clean: Remove any drilling debris or metal shavings from the bottom of the cabinet.
  2. Weep Holes: Verify that weep holes (drainage holes) are present on the bottom edge of the cabinet. If they were blocked during manufacturing or installation, drill 1/4″ holes at the lowest points to prevent water accumulation.
  3. Re-install Faces: Carefully place the faces back into the frame.
    • Re-attach the retainer formatting/frame securely.
    • Ensure all screws or fasteners are tightened to prevent the face from blowing out in high winds.

Important Safety & Code Compliance:

  • Disconnect Switch: A disconnect switch is required by NEC Article 600. If one was not factory-installed, the installer must provide one within sight of the sign.
  • Grounding: The metal cabinet must be bonded to the electrical ground system.
  • Load Limit: Ensure the branch circuit does not exceed 20 or 30 amperes (depending on local code).
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